Jan 20

Fireplace FAQ

Home Inspection Resources 2 Comments »
General Fireplace Questions

Q – What is a direct vent insert?

A direct vent insert is an efficient gas insert made to go into an open wood-burning masonry or
prefabricated fireplace. It is a sealed unit with a glass front. A direct vent insert has two flexible liners
,             each generally three inches thick, that are installed into the chimney flue, one for exhaust and one for
air intake, making it a closed system. This insert primarily provides radiant heat through the glass,
although convective heat is pulled around the firebox from the room, often passing through some form
of heat exchanger and returned to the room.

Q – Will a fan add efficiency to a gas fireplace?

A fan will modestly increase the efficiency of a fireplace by accelerating the rate at which room air is
heated and circulated. In our experience, the more a unit relies on a fan for efficiency, the less effective
the unit.

Q - How Often should I have my fireplace serviced?

Most manufacturers recommend servicing your fireplace once a year. However, if you use your fireplace often and as a primary or strong secondary heat source, we would suggest following the manufacturer’s recommendations. On the other hand, if you do not use your fireplace that often, servicing once every two or three years should suffice. A good tip for maintaining your fireplace is to open up the access to the control area and carefully vacuum and clean it out. These areas can be great dust collectors. If not cleaned out, the dust buildup can eventually affect your fireplace.

Q - Who do I call for servicing?

When setting up a service call, make sure that the technician specializes in the servicing of gas fireplaces and is familiar with your model. There are differences between furnaces, hot water heaters and fireplaces.

Q – Should we leave our pilot light on?

It is advisable in colder weather to keep the pilot on so that some heat is maintained in the vent system. This facilitates the start-up of your fireplace in colder months. In warmer months, if you are not using the fireplace, you can turn the pilot light off.

Q -   Can we change our fireplace from a standing pilot system to electronic ignition?

Historically, most gas fireplaces have operated with standing pilots, much like many furnaces and hot water heaters. Retrofitting existing units with electronic ignitions would require replacement of the valve and pilot system. With most fireplaces, this is not possible due to design restrictions.

Q –  Some manufacturers have rock style burners and use specifically colored and sized ceramic rocks in the
burners. Can these be changed out for other rocks?

In the case of sealed direct vent fireplaces, it is important that the size and placement of the rocks remain approximately the same as recommended by the manufacturer. As long as these criteria are met, the rocks can be replaced with other ceramic rocks of slightly different sizes and colors. With open units, more drastic changes can be made.

Q – Can I change out my direct vent fireplace for another manufacturer’s and hook up to the existing vent
system?

Many direct vent fireplace manufacturers make their own vent systems. Their units are only approved with these systems. You have to be very careful that the new unit will match up with the existing vent system and that approvals are possible.

Q – Can I interchange the trim or log set from one manufacturer to another?

Fireplace components, like most other manufactured products, are generally not universal or interchangeable; especially finishing items such as trims and log sets, which distinguish one manufacturer from another.

Q – Can I set my fireplace on a timer?

Most fireplaces can have a wired or remote control unit installed with a timer feature.

Q – Can we install drywall to the fireplace?

Drywall is considered a combustible. Check the specification of the fireplace you are installing for clearance to combustibles. Note too that drywall finishes will often crack in higher heat situations.

Q – Can we turn down the heat from a fireplace and still have the flames?

More gas, more flames, more heat; less gas, less flames, less heat. A few direct vent zero clearance fireplaces have heat dumps, or heat take offs, but other than this you cannot have the flame without some heat. This will vary depending upon the efficiency of the fireplace.

Q – If we install a fire pit or a built-in exterior fireplace, how much heat can we expect on our deck or patio?

Do not expect to heat your exterior space with a fire pit or fireplace. The radiant heat will take the chill off the immediate surroundings and add a pleasant aesthetic experience to your exterior space.

Q – Do we need a vent for an exterior fireplace?

There are several exterior gas fireplaces on the market which do not require venting off the top or rear of the unit; they simply vent out the front. However for the best flame effect, install a zero-clearance wood-burning fireplace complete with venting, or a full masonry fireplace, and install a gas log set.

Q – Can I change the log set in my zero clearance fireplace or insert fireplace?

The logs installed in gas fireplaces cannot be altered. The set-up of the logs is specific to the way the burner has been tested and works. Also, if you alter the logs, the warranty is likely to be voided.

Q – My wood burning fireplace smokes, if I install a gas log set will it work?

Installing an open gas log set into a wood-burning fireplace is essentially just changing fuels. If your wood-burning fireplace smokes under certain conditions, it is likely that a log set will spill some of its combustion by-products into the room under the same conditions. In these circumstances, it is recommended to install an efficient gas insert with a single or double liner vent system.

Q – Is there a fireplace that can switch from wood burning to gas burning?

There is no fireplace that can perform this dual function. The best you can do is to install a gas log lighter, which is a steel pipe with holes drilled in that is hooked up to the gas and paced beneath your log grate. There’ll be a key mechanism outside of the fireplace for you to turn on the gas, which you would then ignite with a match. This setup is strictly for getting wood fires going.

Q – Can you have a gas fireplace that directly vents out a wall without glass?

There are no fireplaces that direct vent without glass, as the waste gas would come into the room if not for the sealed glass. On the other hand, direct vent technology allows for the installation of fireplaces in areas where you could not previously put them and at relative inexpensive costs.

Q – Can I put a TV above a fireplace?

The short answer is yes, however depending upon the fireplace, care must be taken to provide adequate clearance. Each fireplace has tested clearances to combustibles specs for the area above that should be followed carefully. We would also recommend insulating the framing in the wall above the fireplace to prevent heat going up through the wall, as well as installing some sort of deflection to direct heat away from the face of the TV. Ultimately, you have to decide if you want to watch a TV that is at least half way up the wall.

Q – Will putting doors on an open fireplace increase its efficiency?

Most gas or wood fireplaces that have been designed to operate “open” will not work properly with the doors closed, and in doing so, you may run the risk of melting the valve. The real benefit of having doors is to keep the warm room air from going up the chimney when the fireplace is off.

Q – Is there a choice of logs with my prefabricated gas fireplace?

Almost all gas fireplaces come with complete log sets that cannot be altered. The fireplaces are tested with a particular burner and log set up that cannot be altered without voiding the manufacturer’s warranty. Some of the more basic “builders” units have burner upgrades available, and a couple of the higher-end specialty direct vent units are starting to offer a couple of burner options, but for the most part, most gas fireplaces have no options for different burner and log set ups.

Q – Can I increase the efficiency of my open fireplace by adding glass doors and a fan?

Adding a set of doors to an open fireplace will not increase the efficiency of a fireplace. Furthermore you may blow the doors out or melt the valve of your gas fireplace by operating the fireplace with the doors closed. However, when the fireplace is not operating, having the doors closed will prevent heat from your house from going up the flue, whereas with gas fireplaces the damper is always open. Some open prefabricated gas fireplaces have the facility for adding a fan which will push some of the heated air into the room, but there is no way to add a fan to a basic log set to recover heat.

Q – What are the regulations regarding installing a gas fireplace in a bathroom?

If the bathroom has a door, the fireplace must have a direct vent-balanced flue system – no open B vents. The fireplace must operate on a timer or thermostat and must be 18″ from the tub or shower. The glass on the fireplace should be ceramic.

Q – What are the regulations regarding gas fireplaces in bedrooms?

Any type of gas fireplace can be installed into a bedroom, as long as it can be controlled by a thermostat and there is adequate fresh air makeup.

Q – Can you replace a direct vent fireplace with a different fireplace by simply hooking up to the existing vent?

If the new fireplace has been made by the same manufacturer as the old one, you should have no problem. If not, the complete vent system including the exterior vent termination will have to be changed. This is because each manufacturer receives approval for their units based on the use of their own vent system. So one manufacturer’s fireplace will not be approved with another’s vent system. There are a few exceptions with some smaller manufacturers that use common vent systems made by third-party approved vent manufacturers.

Q – Can I vent an open gas fireplace out a wall?

Only sealed direct vent fireplaces can be vented horizontally out a wall. The only exception would be an open fireplace with a power vented system, which is usually noisy and not recommended in residential installations.

Q – I have a wood-burning brick and masonry fireplace that faces one direction. We would like to open it up so that is see-through and put in a gas insert.

Your chimney has been designed to vent your existing size of fireplace opening, so opening it up on the other side will essentially double the space needed to be vented. This is unlikely to work. What you can do is install glass on one side or use a vent top power draft inducer.

Q – I have a wood-burning fireplace that does not vent very well. I’d like to put in a gas insert to solve the problem, preferably an open gas log set.

If your fireplace does not vent very well with wood, it will not vent well with an open gas log set, since all you are doing is exchanging fuels. You do have several options: One is to install a chimney top powered draft inducer. Another is to install a set of doors that remain partially closed while the fireplace is in use. You can test for this door option by restricting the opening and seeing what happens. The best option in terms of heat is to install an efficient wood or gas insert. Both of these require liners in the chimney and operate with closed glass.

Q – I am looking to replace my existing open gas or wood burning fireplace with a more efficient sealed gas unit, and I want to accomplish this without affecting my finishes.

In 49 out of 50 times, you will not be able to completely take out your existing fireplace without affecting your surrounding finishes. There are small efficient inserts available specifically designed to fit into existing fireplaces. There also is the option to partially cut out your existing fireplace and install an efficient insert with a zero clearance kit.

Q – I have a smoky wood burning fireplace and wish to install an open gas log set to fix the problem.

By exchanging gas for wood you will not solve the problem, you are just exchanging fuels, and if the problem is severe enough and you change to gas, you might make yourself sick or worse. You can however change over to a sealed gas unit to solve your problem.

Q – Are there direct-vented fireplaces with less metal and louvers exposed?

A few manufactures have come up with designs that have minimized the exposed metal on direct vent fireplaces. For examples see the links below.

http://www.vangasfireplaces.com/section.asp?pageid=4316
http://www.vangasfireplaces.com/section.asp?pageid=4304
http://www.vangasfireplaces.com/Town-and-Country.asp

Q – What size of gas pipe do I need to use for a particular fireplace?

The size of the pipe required for a fireplace will depend upon the amount of BTUs used and the gas pressure along its route to the fireplace and back to the meter. In most cases, gas fireplaces can be fed by copper pipes from 3/8″ to 5/8″ or steel pipes up to 3/4″.

Q – Can I use vented gas logs in a stove? In a fireplace? In a coal burning fireplace?

Vented gas logs can only be used in a wood-burning fireplace. A coal-burning fireplace is too shallow. Vented gas logs are not recommended for a stove because of safety concerns.

Q – What does remote ready mean? Does it come with a remote?

Remote ready means that you can turn the unit on and off via the remote (wired or wireless). This requires a millivolt valve that creates millionths of volts of electricity to control the valve. Remote ready units do not come with a remote because there are up to 20 different kinds of remotes.
Efficient Inserts

Q – There is a white film on the inside of the glass. How do I get it off and why is it there?

The film is generally caused by the mineral residue left over from the burning off of the gas. There are water components in gas which carry minerals. Luckily, there are specific cleaners made for cleaning fireplace glass. Do not use ammonia based products as they might cause damage or etching to the glass. To remove and clean your glass check your owner’s manual or call a service technician

Q – Do we need to have those brass strips like the ones shown in the fireplace brochure?

Most fireplace manufacturers, like car manufacturers, like to show as many options for the product as possible, even if many customers just want the basic unit. All the fireplaces shown in the brochure can be obtained in basic black.

Q – If the power goes out, will my fireplace still work?

Most fireplaces installed today have a standing pilot system which generates millivolts of electricity to operate the fireplace, thus no external power is required. At this point, electronic ignitions are seldom installed. Of course if you have a fan, it will not work in a power outage, however the fireplace will.

Q – I presently have a gas fireplace (logs in a sand base) and am interested in the installation of a high efficiency insert. My present fireplace does not seem to throw off much heat and certainly does nothing to warm up the room. I would like to have a rough idea as to cost for a new insert and installation.

The fireplaces themselves start at $1,300 and the installation, including a liner in your chimney at about $375, plus tax, – complete – $1,900 and up.

Q – I have just seen your web page. I have a wood burning fireplace that is open on both sides – i.e. into two rooms. I would like to like to replace it with a gas burning insert but I’m being told that they don’t come two sided.

There are no two sided inserts on the market, there are however, gas log sets which are specifically set up for see through fireplaces.
Zero Clearance Kits For Inserts

Q – I am interested in getting a fireplace installed in my home. I don’t have an existing space and am told I would need what is called a zero clearance kit. My question is – you advertise the use of what you call an approved metal firebox. Is that the same as a zero clearance kit and what exactly is it made of? How is it installed in the wall for the fireplace insert to fit into?

An approved metal firebox refers to either a gas or wood burning fireplace that an insert would fit into. A zero clearance kit is a metal box shaped to fit a gas fireplace insert and is installed In the wall and framed to. It requires a B-vent type vent system which ultimately will terminate past the roof line.
Fans & Thermostats

Q – When purchasing a gas fireplace is it not standard to get a fan and thermostat with it or is this extra and approximately how much? And can they be installed after the fireplace has been inserted?

It is not standard on most fireplaces to have a fan. They are generally options ranging in price, depending upon the model, from $150 to $300. Some units come with built in modulating flame/heat controls. Wall mounted calibrated thermostats are extra and cost from $39 and up depending upon the features and the installation required. It is possible to add fans and thermostats after the initial installation of the fireplace.
Efficiencies

Q – I am getting confused between the efficiency of direct vent and sealed B-vent fireplaces. I have been told that the sealed B-vent does not create the draft and waste heat like the standard B-vent gas fireplace and is not noticeably different from the direct vent. Is this true?

All direct vent fireplaces are not efficient, but most are, it depends on whether they have heat exchangers etc. or not. Definitely open B vented units are inefficient and can cause drafts. Some sealed B-vented units are as efficient as the better direct vent units as long as they have been installed properly with fresh air make up. Quiet often in older homes there is adequate fresh air make-up; fresh air kits are usually required for newer, ‘tighter’ homes.
Log Sets

Q – Can I modulate the flame on my gas log set?

Unlike most full gas inserts, a log set gas valve cannot be modulated easily except by turning down the main shut off, however there are retrofit valve systems available that cost about $600 plus labor that you can install.

Q – I’m looking for a gas fireplace that can vent through a masonry chimney that will look as close to masonry as possible. I want to run the marble right up to the edge of the opening. Approx. 36″ w x 24″ h (if possible). I would also like to be able to use a remote control or wall switch.

If you have an existing wood burning fireplace you can install a log set. They come in various sizes to suit different sized openings and they can also be controlled by a wall switch or a remote control.

Q – Do you sell a gas fireplace with a glowing ember base? i.e.:- a fireplace that has “hot ashes” underneath the grate. Please advise if you do and the prices associated with them. Efficiency is not the concern – appearance is!

The best way to achieve this effect is with a gas log set in either an existing masonry fireplace or a prefabricated zero clearance wood burning fireplace. We often use the zero clearance wood burning fireplace with a gas log set in renovations and new home construction to achieve the best aesthetics. If you look on our web site the combination would be a Superior wood burning zero clearance fireplace with a Peterson log set installed within it.

Q – I recently bought a home where the previous owner converted the wood burning fireplace to gas. At the bottom I found sand and some white cotton like substance that glows when the flame is on. Is this asbestos? Was asbestos ever used in gas fireplaces? I have two small children and would like to know if it poses a health problem.

It is not asbestos; it is vermiculite and rock wool.

Q – I have steel wood stove, brick lined and doors come off for open front. I want to put gas 18″ logs in it. It is vented through a chimney.

You can install the log set if you leave the doors off.
Doors

Q – The existing fireplace in the living room is a Traditional wood burning masonry fireplace built flush to the wall. The previous home owner installed a gas log set and a set of folding glass doors attached to the ceramic tile surround. The opening is about W39″ by H29″. We will want to get a new more realistic log set. Would you recommend staying with some sort of glass on the front? And do you know if it is possible to increase the height of the opening in a masonry fireplace?

Doors will cut down on your heat loss when the fireplace is not in operation, as the damper in wood burning fireplaces is either disabled or removed entirely when a log set is installed. To increase the opening height you would have to have the chimney capacity calculated for the new opening.
Fans and Direct vents

Q – I am finishing my basement. I am looking for a direct vent gas fireplace in the 30K BTU range. I need to have a blower to heat the entire basement. What is the capacity of your fan and does the fan draw from outside the home or inside the room?

A fan itself does not heat. It is the efficiency of the unit which counts. A fan will assist in the circulation of converted heat in the room – as will a ceiling fan, it does bring in fresh air from outside. A fan installed in a fireplace usually increases the efficiency of a fireplace 5 to 10%.
Out Door Fireplaces

Q – I want a freestanding natural gas stove for my outdoor covered patio. Can any of your indoor gas stoves be used outside? The stove will be on a deck that has a roof. I live near Seattle, so you know our weather. Thank you. PS. Chimerras are the only outdoor gas stove solution that I have found…but I don’t like those. I want a pretty outdoor stove for warmth and ambiance on dreary evenings.

There is no stove style gas unit approved for exterior use, the chimera style gas unit and the open campfire units are the only off the shelf units available. We have built in zero clearance units for the purpose (see below).

Q – I’m looking for an outdoor, built-in, gas fireplace.

There is not a unit specifically for this purpose. There is however, stainless wood burning units which you build in then install gas log sets into.

Q – Is an outdoor wood-burning fireplace permitted in my area?

Each municipality has its own bylaws regarding this issue. Metropolitan Vancouver and the North Shore municipalities do not allow it, while other municipalities make allowances if you say it is a cooking fire (so keep a stick and a hot dog around!). There are a number of gas alternatives available for outdoor installation, some built in and others free standing.
BBQs & Patio Heaters

Q – I am interested in installing a natural gas patio heater. What is approximate cost of running a gas line about 20ft and installing a gas valve? There is gas on the property.

If the gas line is run on the house or a solid surface the cost would be $225. This would include a basic quick connect which would be required to plug in a heater if it is a portable model. If you are planning in installing a fixed unit, the cost would depend upon the style of heater chosen.
Wood Burning

Q – Can I convert an existing wood burning stove to gas?

You may find a log set burner small enough to fit into your stove or have a custom burner made to fit. You’ll also have to get the gas into the stove without compromising the integrity of the stove. The door must be removed so as not to melt the gas valve or the controls outside the stove.

Q – What is seasoned cordwood? To heat an area of 1500 to 2000 sq. ft . would you need a fan system? How many hours does a single load of wood burn? Can you connect to forced air system even through an existing wood burning fireplace chimney?

Seasoned cordwood is hardwood that has been dried out for at least a year or more. To heat that space you would need a fan. Burn times vary as to the unit and the type of wood used – anywhere from 8 to 18 hours. With a free standing unit there is no real way to hook up to a duct system, the more sophisticated built in air tights have duct take offs.

Q – Are wood fireplaces allowed to be put into new homes?

This question reflects an urban myth that’s been alive and well in the Vancouver area for some time. Presently, there are no restrictions to installing and using a wood-burning fireplace inside a home in the Vancouver area, as long as the fireplace is built or installed to code.
Venting

Q – Is it possible to have a gas fire without having a fireplace, example on a back outside wall?

In short – yes. You would install a zero clearance direct vent fireplace, which does not require any existing fireplace or chimney system and would vent straight through the outside wall.

Q – I have a wood burning fireplace on one side and on the backside of the fireplace, which is in my den; I have a wood burning stove that I would like to replace with a gas fireplace. The wood burning stove is vented out the back of the fireplace.

If there are two flues you can use one for your gas stove and one for the existing fireplace, but if the stove shares a flue with the wood fireplace, you cannot use it for a gas fireplace and you would have to run a separate vent either up through the roof or out through the wall.

Q – We have a gas insert that is approximately 8 years old. Is it possible to convert this to a direct vent? If not, could it be power-vented to achieve a similar result? Thanks!

It is not possible to convert a “B” vent fireplace into a direct vent. It is possible to add a power vent. We would need to know a few more things – how far do you want to vent etc. The down side of a power vent system are noise, permanent power requirements and cost.
Decorative B Vented Fireplaces

Q – Do you make any new gas fireplaces with zero clearance in which the front doors can open?

There are zero clearance, B-vented units that vent up through the roof and the doors do open. On these fireplaces doors, in fact, are not a necessity – but keep in mind that these fireplaces are also only decorative and not an efficient source of heat.

ThermArtTM

Q – With ThermArtTM fires, can the heat output be adjusted?

Yes. The heat can be progressively adjusted using the high end remote control which includes temperature control and timed setting functions. The adjustment range of the valve provides you with a range of heat outputs for varied comfort conditions. If you wish to enjoy your gas fire throughout the summer or to take the chill out of those late evenings, simply turn down the input setting so you don’t overheat your room!

Q – Do ThermArtTM fires have installation options?

The ThermArtTM fire can be recessed into a combustible wall as a zero clearance appliance or mounted directly on the surface of the wall using the supplied host cabinet. You can also design your own custom ThermArtTM stainless steel surround to finish the installation. ThermArtTM uses corrosion-resistant materials and is suitable for installation outdoors, however direct exposure to heavy or freezing rain or snow is not recommended.
Oct 21

InterNACHI’s Estimated Life Expectancy Chart

Home Inspection Resources No Comments »

The following chart details the predicted life expectancy of household materials and components.
Interior and exterior paints can last for 15 years or longer, however homeowners often paint more frequently. Surface preparation is likely the most important determiner of paint life expectancy.
ADHESIVES, CAULK AND PAINTS
YEAR
Caulking
5-10
Paint
7
Roofing Adhesives
15+
Appliance life expectancy depends to a great extent on the use it receives. Furthermore, consumers often replace appliances long before they become worn out due to changes in styling, technology and consumer preferences. Of a home’s major appliances, gas ranges have the longest life expectancy.
APPLIANCES
YEARS
–>Air-Conditioners
8-15
Boilers
 20-35
Compactors
6
Dehumidifiers
 8
Dishwashers
 9
Disposers, Food waste
 12
Dryers
13
Exhaust Fans
10
Freezers
 10-20
Furnaces
15-25
Gas Ovens
10-18
Heat Pumps
16
Humidifiers
 8
Microwave Ovens
9
Range/Oven Hoods
14
Electric Ranges
13-15
Refrigerators
9-13
Washing Machine
5 -15
Water Heaters
10-11
BATHROOM
YEARS
Cast Iron Bathtub
50
Fiberglass  Bathtub and Shower
10-15
Shower Door
25
Toilet
50
Kitchens are in the process of becoming larger and more elaborate, and together with the family room, modern kitchens now form the “great room.”
Great rooms are a place to cook as well as a space where people gather to read, talk, eat, do homework, surf the Internet, and pay bills.
CABINETRY & STORAGE
YEARS
Bath Cabinets
100+
Closet Shelves 100+
Entertainment Centers/Home Office 10
Garage/Laundry Cabinets 100+
Kitchen Cabinets 50
Medicine Cabinets 20+
Modular/Stock Manufacturing Type
50
Walls and ceilings last the full lifespan of the home.
CEILINGS, WALLS & FINISHES
YEARS
Acoustical Ceiling
100+
Ceiling Suspension
100+
Ceramic Tile
100+
Standard Gypsum
100+
Natural stone countertops, which are less expensive than they were just a few years ago, are becoming more popular and one can expect them to last a lifetime. Cultured marble countertops have a shorter life expectancy, however.
COUNTERTOPS
YEARS
Cultured Marble
20
Natural Stone
100+
Laminate Countertops
20 – 30
Tile
100+
Wood
100+
Decks are exposed to a wide range of conditions in different climates, from wind and hail in some areas to relatively consistent, dry weather, in others. Under ideal conditions, they have a life expectancy of about 20 years but they can fail much sooner.
DECKS
YEARS
Deck Planks
25
Wood
10-30
Exterior fiberglass, steel and wood doors will last as long as the house, while vinyl and screen doors have a shorter life expectancy. Closet doors may last a lifetime, but French doors will fail sooner.
DOORS
YEARS
Closet (Interior)
100+
Fiberglass (Exterior)
100+
Fire-Rated Steel (Exterior)
100+
French (Interior)
 30-50
Screen (Exterior)
40
Vinyl (Exterior) 20
Wood (Exterior)
100+
Wood (Hollow Core Interior)
20 – 30
Wood (Solid Core Interior)
30 – 100+
Floor and roof trusses and laminated strand lumber are durable household components, and engineered trim may last 30 years.
ENGINEERED LUMBER
YEARS
Engineered Trim
30
Laminated Strand Lumber
100+
Laminated Veneer Lumber
80+
Trusses
100+
FIXTURES & FAUCETS
YEARS
Accessible/ADA Products
100+
Enamel Steel Kitchen Sinks
5-10
Faucets
15-20
Modified Acrylic Kitchen Sinks
50
Saunas/Steam Rooms
15-20
Shower Enclosures/Modules
50
Shower heads
100+
Soapstone Kitchen Sinks
100+
Toilets/Bidets
100+
Whirlpool Tubs
20-50
Natural wood floorings may las as long as the house. Marble, slate, and granite are also expected to last for about 100 years, but require more maintenance. Vinyl floors last up to 50 years, linoleum about 25 years, and carpet between 8 and 10 years (with appropriate maintenance and normal traffic).
FLOORING
YEARS
All Wooden Floors
100+
Bamboo
100+
Brick Pavers
100+
Carpet
8-10
Concrete
50+
Engineered Wood
50+
Exotic Wood
100+
Granite
100+
Laminate
15-25
Linoleum
25
Marble
100+
Other Domestic Wood
100+
Slate
100
Terrazo
75+
Tile
75-100
Vinyl
25
Concrete and poured block footings and foundations will last a lifetime, assuming they were properly built. Termite proofing of foundations will last about 12 years if the chemical barriers put in place during construction are left intact. Waterproofing with bituminous coating lasts 10 years, but if it cracks it is immediately damaged.
FOOTING & FOUNDATIONS
YEARS
Baseboard System
50
Bituminous Coating Waterproofing
10
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Above Ground)
60+
Cast Iron Waste Pipe (Below ground)
50 – 60
Concrete Block
100+
Concrete Waste Pipe
 100
Poured Footings and Foundations
100+
Pumps, Sumps, and Wells
5-12
Termite Proofing
12
Framing and structural systems have extended longevities; poured-concrete systems, timber frame houses and structural insulated panels will all last a lifetime. Wall panels and roof and floor trusses will also last a lifetime. Hardboard, softwood, and plywood last an average of 30 years, while OSB and particleboard are expected to last twice that long.
FRAMING & OTHER STRUCTURAL SYSTEMS
YEARS
Poured-Concrete Systems
100+
Structural Insulated Panels
100+
Timber Frame Homes
100+
Garage door openers are expected to last 10 to 15 years, and light inserts will last slightly longer.
GARAGES
YEARS
Garage Doors
20-25
Garage Door Openers
10-15
Light Inserts
20
Home technology systems have diverse life expectancies. While a built-in audio system will last 20 years, security systems and heat/smoke detectors have life expectancies of 5 to 10 years. Wireless home networks and home automation systems are expected to work properly for more than 50 years.
HOME TECHNOLOGY
YEARS
Built-in Audio
20
Home Automation Systems
100+
Security Systems
5-10
Smoke/Heat Detectors
Less Than 10
Wireless Home Networks
50+
Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems require regular maintenance in order to work properly, but even well-maintained systems only last 15 to 25 years. Furnaces, on average, last 15-20 years, heat pumps last 16 years, and air conditioning units last 10-15 years. Tankless water heaters last more than 20 years, while an electric or gas water heater has a life expectancy of about 10 years. Thermostats may last 35 years but they are usually replaced before they fail due to technological improvements.
HVAC
YEARS
Air Conditioners
10-15
Air Quality Systems
15
Attic Fans
15 – 25
Boilers
13-21
Burners
 10+
Central Air Conditioning Unite
12-15
Dampers
 20+
Dehumidifiers
8
Diffusers, Grilles, and Registers
 25
Ducting
 10
DX, Water, Or Steam
 20
Electric
 15
Electric Radiant Heater
40
Furnaces
 15-20
Heat Exchangers, shell + tube
10-15
Heat Pumps
 16
Heat Recovery Ventilators
 20
Hot Water or Steam Radiant Heater
 40
Induction and Fan-Coil Units
 10-15
Molded Insulation
 100+
Shell and Tube
20
Thermostats
 35
Ventilators 7
Water Heaters
20+
As long as they are not punctured, cut, or burned and are kept dry and away from UV rays, cellulose, fiberglass, and foam insulation materials will last a lifetime. This is true regardless of whether they were installed as loose fill, house wrap, or batts/rolls.
INSULATION & INFILTRATION BARRIERS
YEARS
Batts/Rolls
100+
Cellulose
100+
Fiberglass
100+
Foam
100+
House Wrap
100+
Loose Fill
100+
Ladders are expected to last a lifetime, but life expectancy of lifts is significantly shorter.
JOB SITE EQUIPMENT
YEARS
Ladders
 100+
Lifts
8-10
Copper plated wiring, copper clad aluminum, and bare copper wiring are expected to last a lifetime, whereas electrical accessories and lighting controls may need to be replaced after 10 years.
LIGHTING & ELECTRICAL
YEARS
Accessories
10+
Bare Copper
100+
Copper Clad Aluminum
100+
Copper Plated
100+
Lighting Controls
10+
Masonry is one of the most enduring household components. Fireplaces, chimneys, and brick veneers can last the lifetime of a home.
MASONRY & CONCRETE
YEARS
Brick
100+
Sealer Caulking
2-20
Stone
100+
Veneer
100+
Custom millwork will last a lifetime, and all stairs – circular and spiral stairs, prebuilt stairs and attic stairs – are expected to last a lifetime.
MOLDING & MILLWORK
YEARS
Attic Stairs
100+
Custom Millwork
100+
Prebuilt Stairs
100+
Stair Parts
100+
Stairs, Circular & Spiral
100+
Lifetime of any wood product depend on level of moisture intrusion
PANELS
YEARS
Flooring Underlayment
25
Hardboard
30
Particleboard
60
Plywood
60
Softwood
30
Oriented-Strand Board
60
Wall Panels
100+
The life of a roof depends on local weather conditions, building and design, material quality, and adequate maintenance. Slate, copper, and clay/concrete roofs have the longest life expectancy while roofs made of asphalt shingles, fiber cement or wood shakes will fail sooner.
ROOFING
YEARS
Aluminum Coating
3-7
Asphalt Shingles (3 – tab)
20
Asphalt (Architectural)
30
BUR (Built-up Roof)
30
Clay/Concrete
 100+
Coal and Tar
30
Copper
100+
EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) Rubber
15 – 25
Fiber Cement
 25
Modified Bitumen
20
Simulated Slate
50
Slate
50+
TPO
7 – 20
Wood
 30
Outside materials typically last a lifetime. Brick, vinyl, engineered wood, stone (both natural and manufactured), and fiber cement will last as long the house. Exterior wood shutters are expected to last 20 years, depending on weather conditions. Gutters have a life expectancy of more than 50 years if made of copper and for 20 years if made of aluminum. Copper downspouts last 100 years or more, while aluminum ones will last 30 years.
SIDING & ACCESSORIES
YEARS
Aluminum Downspouts
30
Aluminum Gutters
20
Aluminum/Interior Shutters
10+
Brick
100+
Copper Downspouts
100
Copper Gutters
50+
Engineered Wood
100+
Fiber Cement
100+
Galvanized Steel Gutters/Downspouts
20
Manufactured Stone
100+
Soffits/Fascias
50
Stone
100+
Stucco
50 – 100
Trim
25
Vinyl 100+
Wood/Exterior Shutters 20
Wood/Interior Shutters 15+
Most landscaping elements have a life expectancy of 15 to 25 years. Sprinklers and valves last about 20 years, while underground PVC piping has a lifespan of 25 years. Polyvinyl fences are designed to last as long as the house, and asphalt driveways should last between 15 and 20 years. Tennis courts can last a lifetime if they are recoated; most coatings last 12 to 15 years. The concrete shell of a swimming pool is expected to last more than 25 years, but the interior plaster and tile have life expectancies of about 10 to 25 years.
SITE & LANDSCAPING
YEARS
American Red Clay
100+
Asphalt Driveway
15-20
Asphalt with Acrylic Coating or Cushion
12-15
Brick & Concrete Patios
15-25
Clay Paving
 100+
Cleaning Equipment(Swimming Pool)
 7-10
Coating
 5-7
Concrete Shell (Swimming Pool)
 25+
Concrete Walks
40- 50
Controllers
15
Decking(Swimming Pool)
15
Fast-Dry Green Tennis Court 100+
Fast-Dry with Subsurface
100+
Gravel Walks
4-6
Interior Finish( Swimming Pool)
10-35
Polyvinyl Fences 100+
Sprinklers 10-14
Underground PVC Piping 60+
Valves
 20
Waterline Tile ( Swimming Pool)
10
Aluminum windows are expected to last between 15 and 20 years while wooden windows should last nearly 30 years.
SKYLIGHTS & WINDOWS
YEARS
Aluminum/Aluminum Clad
15-20
Window Glazing 10+
Vinyl Windows
20 – 40
Wood
30+

Note: Life expectancy varies with usage, weather, installation, maintenance and quality of materials. Items listed as lasting 100+ years, especially those that open and close, often fail prematurely due to misuse or overuse. This list should be used only as a general guideline, not as a guarantee or warranty regarding the performance or life expectancy of any product.

For the best inspector in your neighborhood, visit:  www.InspectorSEEK.com

Oct 19

Vendor, Listing Agent pre inspection check list

Home Inspection Resources 1 Comment »

Following are some helpful hints if you’re a Seller, and some helpful hints for your Seller if you’re the agent.

Don’t do something that you’re not comfortable doing; hire a professional do to it.

OUTSIDE

  1. _____Check that doorbells work.
  2. _____Check for missing roof shingles.
  3. _____Check for loose/damaged/clogged gutters/downspouts.
  4. _____Check attic ventilation and condition of vent screens.
  5. _____Check to see if there is standing water, especially near the foundation, after irrigation or rainfall.
  6. _____Check for cracks in foundation walls.
  7. _____Check structure (including attic and foundation crawl space) for pests (termites, wasps, spiders, nests, etc.).
  8. _____Check exterior weatherproofing (stain, paint, etc.).
  9. _____Check for any wood in direct contact with soil, including fences and gates.
  10. _____Check for loose wiring (electric, cable, phone) and poor wire terminations.
  11. _____Check for holes and damage to siding, doors, windows, and trim so that structure is weatherproof.
  12. _____Check condition of fences or gates (leaning, damaged).
  13. _____Check that any exterior outlets are weatherproofed and not in permanent use for any landscape lighting.
  14. _____Check condition of landscape components (retaining walls, landscaper timbers, etc.).
  15. _____Check for overgrown vegetation, especially in walkways; growing on siding, roof, chimney, fences, or in gutters; or too close to utility lines.
  16. _____Check for trip hazards in walkways, driveways, and stairways (deterioration, vegetation, etc.)
  17. _____Check for loose, missing, or rusted guardrails and handrails at stairways, decks, balconies, and porches.
  18. _____Check that landscape lighting/irrigation systems work, and that sprinklers don’t spray on fences or buildings.
  19. _____Check condition of pool and spa, and related equipment and utilities.
  20. _____Check that ponds, fountains, and waterfalls, and related utilities, work properly and are protected from children.


PLUMBING

  1. _____Check that seismic straps are on the water heater.
  2. _____Check that stoppers work in bathtubs and sinks.
  3. _____Check for clogged drains.
  4. _____Check that toilet seat bolts and screws are tight.
  5. _____Check that faucets don’t drip or leak around the base.
  6. _____Check stop action on faucet handles.
  7. _____Check condition of caulk/grout in bathtubs/showers.
  8. _____Check insulation on water pipes in foundation crawl space and attic.
  9. _____Check for safe and easy access to water shutoff valves (street curb, water heater, sinks, toilets, etc.).
  10. _____Check for safe and easy access to any gas shutoff valves (meter, furnace, water heater, etc.).
  11. _____Check for loose toilets and loose toilet tanks.


ELECTRICAL

  1. _____Check for safe and easy access to electric panels and main circuit breaker.
  2. _____Check that ceiling fans work on all speeds.
  3. _____Check for burned out lights, including ceiling fans.
  4. _____Check for damaged or loose outlets and light switches, including covers for outlets and switches.
  5. _____Check for unplugged appliances, and unplug anything that is unnecessary to facilitate outlet testing by the Buyer’s property inspector.
  6. _____Remove extension cords and outlet multipliers.
  7. _____Check that outlets work.
  8. _____Check for outdated two-prong outlets and upgrade them to three-prong outlets.
  9. _____Check for properly working GFCI outlets in kitchen, bathrooms, garage, and exterior.
  10. _____Check that exhaust fans work in kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry area.
  11. _____Check that any electrical junction boxes have covers.


INSIDE

  1. _____Check condition of towel holders and bathroom tissue holders.
  2. _____Check condition of bathtubs, showers, and shower doors, and replace old shower curtains.
  3. _____Check that safety seal shows on floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors.
  4. _____Check that carbon monoxide alarms work.
  5. _____Check that smoke alarms work, and that they are present on each floor of multi-story houses.
  6. _____Check for loose kitchen and bathroom countertops.
  7. _____Check ease of operation for doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers, and windows, including windows nailed or painted shut.
  8. _____Check for missing, loose, or damaged hardware on doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers (stops and guides), and windows.
  9. _____Check for loose glass panes in windows and doors, as well as glass with holes or cracks in them.
  10. _____Check that latches/locks work on doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers, and windows.
  11. _____Check for damage to screen windows.
  12. _____Remove excessive storage (closets, attic, garage).
  13. _____Check for damage to walls and ceilings that need to be patched and painted.
  14. _____Check for moisture stains on ceilings and walls; around doors and windows; near sinks, toilets, bathtubs, and showers; and near the dishwasher.
  15. _____Check for loose, missing, or damaged guardrails and handrails in stairways.
  16. _____Check for loose, broken or missing baseboards and door and window moldings.
  17. _____Check for cracked tiles or deteriorated grouting in kitchen and bathrooms.
  18. _____Check that kitchen appliances work.
  19. _____Check that an anti-tip device is installed on the range.


MISCELLANEOUS

  1. _____Let dogs and cats vacation for a few hours with a family member, friend, or at a pet spa. Check that other pets (birds, snakes, rodents, etc.) are caged.
  2. _____Certain items should be inspected annually due to their inherently dangerous nature. These include gas-using appliances, pool/spa equipment, roof, and the fireplace and chimney. If they have not been inspected within the last 12 months, having it done now can make escrow go more smoothly.
  3. _____Check that filters are in place and clean (kitchen range hood, heating/cooling, bathroom fans, etc.)
  4. _____Check for soot, cobwebs, and wildlife in the fireplace and lower areas of the chimney.
  5. _____The Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) recommends that the fireplace and chimney undergo a Level II inspection any time real estate ownership is transferred, and I recommend having that done prior to the Buyer’s inspection.
  6. _____Check that the fireplace damper opens/closes easily.
  7. _____Check for manufacturer installation guides, operating instructions, or user guides that you can provide to the buyer, especially for kitchen appliances; heating and cooling system; water heater; security, irrigation, fire suppression, central cleaning, and water modification systems; water well; and septic system.
  8. _____Many property inspectors exclude inspection and testing of some specialized systems, such as security and irrigation systems. Once you get the Buyer’s inspection report, note what the Inspector did and did not do or could and could not do. Offer to meet with the Buyer to demonstrate how those systems are operated and maintained, and provide the contact information for any companies that regularly service the systems.
  9. _____Check for receipts and warranty papers for any work done on the property, particularly for inspections and work done to prepare the property for sale.
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