The defective Chinese drywall emits toxic hydrogen sulphide, sulphur dioxide and other gases. It is believed that humidity in the air causes the sulphur in the drywall to off-gas, or migrate into the indoor air. This creates a noxious odour, and can result in serious health conditions and illnesses, such as breathing problems, eye irritation, fatigue, dizziness, insomnia, sore throat, bloody nose, and headaches.

When the sulphide gas comes into contact with normal home humidity, it gives off a rotten egg smell, and begins to corrode any exposed copper or lead in the home. Affected homeowners have reported blackened and scorched wiring behind wall plugs and switch plates, and corroded evaporator coils on air conditioning units. Light bulbs and fixtures may also stop working.

Appliances and other electrical equipment may fail prematurely, and personal jewelery and silverware as well as the wiring in cable televisions and converters can turn black.

Hundreds of millions of sheets of the defective drywall were imported into the United States between 2001 and 2007. It has been reported in as many as 14 states, and may have been used in an estimated 100,000 renovated and newly-built homes, with up to 40,000 in Florida alone.

In addition, an estimated 929,000 square metres arrived in Canada through Vancouver in the same period.

Much of the product imported into Canada was used in the lower B.C. mainland, but some may have reached the Prairies and as far east as Toronto.

In addition to being used in new construction and renovations, a huge amount of the Chinese drywall was used to repair thousands of homes damaged by Hurricanes Katrina and Wilma in Louisiana, Mississippi, Florida, and Texas. Sadly, many will have to be rebuilt a second time.

One prevalent theory about the toxicity in the drywall is that it was manufactured in gypsum mines in China using fly ash, a by-product of coal-powered electrical generation. Coal fly ash can become airborne and emit toxic sulphur compounds.

(Coincidentally, defective fly ash was the critical ingredient in ready-mix concrete used in the crumbling foundations of hundreds of homes in Eastern Ontario. This resulted in 16 years of litigation, almost $20 million in damages and another $20 million in court costs.)

Several lawsuits and class actions, including one by a group of Florida homeowners, have been launched against German drywall company Knauf Gips KG, a Chinese subsidiary and a number of American home builders.

The Environmental Protection Agency, the federal Consumer Product Safety Commission and the Florida Department of Health in the United States are all investigating the extent of the problem.

In the United States House of Representatives, the Drywall Safety Act was introduced in April. Currently under study in a House committee, it would mandate a recall of drywall imported between 2004 and 2007.

Houses built or renovated with contaminated Chinese drywall cannot be repaired. The only possible fix for affected homes is to have the owners move out for several months, gut the house and rebuild the interior. Anything inside the house that may have been contaminated by the sulphur gases will also have to be destroyed and replaced.

Industry watchers have estimated that as few as three sheets of drywall in a house can be enough to contaminate it to the point of making it uninhabitable.

House insurance policies do not normally cover environmental issues, and there have been reports of some home insurers refusing to pay for replacement of drywall. In cases like these, homeowners could be facing financial ruin.

Thomas Martin, president of America’s Watchdog, says the crisis is “the worst case of sick houses in U.S. history.”

The full effect of the Chinese drywall crisis in Canada remains to be seen.

If you suspect you have this product in your home, consult an environmental engineer or qualified home inspector.

Bob Aaron is a Toronto real estate lawyer and board member of the Tarion Warranty Corp. He can be reached at bob@aaron.ca. His website: aaron.ca.

It used to be that a grow-op in a town or neighbourhood was used until it was publicly unmasked or the house was destroyed. Now illegal grow operators take a quick crop from a house, re-paint the interior to mask any obvious damage, then dump it on the

market.

With an increasing percentage of real estate available for sale in BC having previously been used as marijuana grow-op sites, CAHPI (BC) wants you to know some of the warning signs:

• Holes or patches in the ceiling in unusual places, or a patch in the drywall close to electrical services.
• Painted-over staple marks, or evidence of plastics stapled to walls or ceilings.
• Disconnected toilet or dismantled furnace makeup air connection.
• Extraneous ductwork, or a pile of unused duct pipe.

These indicators do not mean a house must have been used as a grow op, but they do mean you need to pay attention, and ask questions because buying a home represents the single largest financial decision people are likely to make in their lives.

Consumers who seek professional and qualified advice to help make the decision to buy a home deserve to know that the individual they hire is trained and qualified. With over 200 Registered Home Inspectors in 178 BC communities, CAHPI (BC) is the only
recognized national organization dedicated solely to home and property inspections, and the voice of home and property inspection industry in British Columbia.

So if you think a house may have been used as a grow-op, don’t take a chance, contact people who can help you make an informed choice.

Contact CAHPI (BC) toll-free at 1-800-610-5665.

TORONTO — Yvonne Kraft feels trapped between listing without using the most widely viewed service in Canada or paying commission on a house she’s confident will sell as soon as the sign goes up.

“There’s nothing in between, it would be nice to have a choice,” said the interior designer from Hamilton who has privately sold houses twice.

Kraft says when she sold her house five years ago, she was one of only a handful of private sellers, but a growth of do-it-yourself websites has made private listing more mainstream.

“The do-it-yourself real estate industry is growing in spite of the real estate board not wanting to budge on their regulations, it’s going to grow on its own and if they don’t want to join the party then they’re going to be left out,” she said.

The Canadian Real Estate Association, which represents about 98,000 realtors, loosened its rules Monday to lift restrictions on realtors’ minimum service requirements and allow consumers to use an agent to simply list their property and handle the details on their own.

But the Competition Bureau rejected those changes saying they do not create more choice for home buyers and sellers, and instead give realtors a “blank cheque” to impose new anti-competitive rules.

Commissioner of competition Melanie Aitken told the Calgary Chamber of Commerce on Tuesday that there is no guarantee the amendments are permanent.

“Until there is some certainty that the rules aren’t going to shift, that it’s not going to be a risk of a fleeting opportunity, (realtors are) not going to make the investment to offer up those innovative service and pricing models, she said.

“Until they do so, we’re concerned we’re not going to see the choice for the Canadian consumer and we’re not going to see the downward pressure on prices that we would otherwise expect to see.”

The bureau has said it will continue to pursue an application filed with the Competition Tribunal in February seeking to strike down CREA’s rules on the use of its Multiple Listings Service, which it has said restrict consumers’ ability to conduct real estate transactions without an agent.

CREA allows only its members to post homes for sale on its MLS database, which is operated by regional real estate boards and where 90 per cent of homes in Canada are sold.

Kraft says the rules preventing her from listing her home on MLS drive her to use smaller private web sites that charge a flat fee.

“(But) not everyone knows to look there, I don’t even look there myself,” she said.

Listing privately also reduces the number of potential buyers who see her home, she said, because part of the CREA rules require a listing agent to give the buying agent a percentage of commission, and they’re less inclined to show a home they won’t be making a profit from.

Kraft said she wants to be able to decide which services she would like an agent to provide and which she’d do herself.

“There’s people like me, if you’ve bought and sold a few houses you know exactly what an agent has to do, its no big mystery,” she said.

John Andrew, director of the executive seminars on real estate at Queen’s University, noted most buyers already do online research and no longer wait for an agent to present them with homes.

“Most consumers want to do at least the initial leg work themselves…and it’s bad for the industry that people haven’t really been able to do that.”

He added that CREA could have avoided the anti-competition troubles by updating the site and making more information available to consumers, to help turn casual shoppers into customers.

“The way it is now if you’re interested in possibly moving, possibly looking for another house, you’ve basically got no choice but to hire an agent.”

Philip Soper, president of Royal LePage, said the changes to the association’s rules do give agents more flexibility to offer “a la carte” services, which will prompt an increase in the number of discount brokerages.

He added the industry is seeing a number of consumer portals cropping up, adding that Kijiji, an eBay subsidiary that operates online classified, is already Canada’s second largest real estate site.

But Soper said even if the data available on the MLS system was opened to consumers, the industry wouldn’t change dramatically.

“There are many low priced alternatives already competing for the price sensitive portion of the market, so I don’t think rule changes will result in a big shift in the way real estate services are offered in Canada.”

Soper said it wouldn’t be any more complicated than using websites like Kijiji or Craigslist for a homeowner to list a home themselves, but added privacy would be a major concern.

“By far and away the majority of people pay a realtor to act as a screen in order to weed out serious offers from tire kickers or worse, people who are just trying to sell you something.”

Q – What is a direct vent insert?

A direct vent insert is an efficient gas insert made to go into an open wood-burning masonry or
prefabricated fireplace. It is a sealed unit with a glass front. A direct vent insert has two flexible liners
,             each generally three inches thick, that are installed into the chimney flue, one for exhaust and one for
air intake, making it a closed system. This insert primarily provides radiant heat through the glass,
although convective heat is pulled around the firebox from the room, often passing through some form
of heat exchanger and returned to the room.

Q – Will a fan add efficiency to a gas fireplace?

A fan will modestly increase the efficiency of a fireplace by accelerating the rate at which room air is
heated and circulated. In our experience, the more a unit relies on a fan for efficiency, the less effective
the unit.

Q - How Often should I have my fireplace serviced?

Q - Who do I call for servicing?

Q – Should we leave our pilot light on?

Q -   Can we change our fireplace from a standing pilot system to electronic ignition?

Q –  Some manufacturers have rock style burners and use specifically colored and sized ceramic rocks in the
burners. Can these be changed out for other rocks?

In the case of sealed direct vent fireplaces, it is important that the size and placement of the rocks remain approximately the same as recommended by the manufacturer. As long as these criteria are met, the rocks can be replaced with other ceramic rocks of slightly different sizes and colors. With open units, more drastic changes can be made.

Q – Can I change out my direct vent fireplace for another manufacturer’s and hook up to the existing vent
system?

Many direct vent fireplace manufacturers make their own vent systems. Their units are only approved with these systems. You have to be very careful that the new unit will match up with the existing vent system and that approvals are possible.

Q – Can I interchange the trim or log set from one manufacturer to another?

Fireplace components, like most other manufactured products, are generally not universal or interchangeable; especially finishing items such as trims and log sets, which distinguish one manufacturer from another.

Q – Can I set my fireplace on a timer?

Most fireplaces can have a wired or remote control unit installed with a timer feature.

Q – Can we install drywall to the fireplace?

Drywall is considered a combustible. Check the specification of the fireplace you are installing for clearance to combustibles. Note too that drywall finishes will often crack in higher heat situations.

Q – Can we turn down the heat from a fireplace and still have the flames?

More gas, more flames, more heat; less gas, less flames, less heat. A few direct vent zero clearance fireplaces have heat dumps, or heat take offs, but other than this you cannot have the flame without some heat. This will vary depending upon the efficiency of the fireplace.

Q – If we install a fire pit or a built-in exterior fireplace, how much heat can we expect on our deck or patio?

Do not expect to heat your exterior space with a fire pit or fireplace. The radiant heat will take the chill off the immediate surroundings and add a pleasant aesthetic experience to your exterior space.

Q – Do we need a vent for an exterior fireplace?

There are several exterior gas fireplaces on the market which do not require venting off the top or rear of the unit; they simply vent out the front. However for the best flame effect, install a zero-clearance wood-burning fireplace complete with venting, or a full masonry fireplace, and install a gas log set.

Q – Can I change the log set in my zero clearance fireplace or insert fireplace?

The logs installed in gas fireplaces cannot be altered. The set-up of the logs is specific to the way the burner has been tested and works. Also, if you alter the logs, the warranty is likely to be voided.

Q – My wood burning fireplace smokes, if I install a gas log set will it work?

Installing an open gas log set into a wood-burning fireplace is essentially just changing fuels. If your wood-burning fireplace smokes under certain conditions, it is likely that a log set will spill some of its combustion by-products into the room under the same conditions. In these circumstances, it is recommended to install an efficient gas insert with a single or double liner vent system.

Q – Is there a fireplace that can switch from wood burning to gas burning?

There is no fireplace that can perform this dual function. The best you can do is to install a gas log lighter, which is a steel pipe with holes drilled in that is hooked up to the gas and paced beneath your log grate. There’ll be a key mechanism outside of the fireplace for you to turn on the gas, which you would then ignite with a match. This setup is strictly for getting wood fires going.

Q – Can you have a gas fireplace that directly vents out a wall without glass?

There are no fireplaces that direct vent without glass, as the waste gas would come into the room if not for the sealed glass. On the other hand, direct vent technology allows for the installation of fireplaces in areas where you could not previously put them and at relative inexpensive costs.

Q – Can I put a TV above a fireplace?

The short answer is yes, however depending upon the fireplace, care must be taken to provide adequate clearance. Each fireplace has tested clearances to combustibles specs for the area above that should be followed carefully. We would also recommend insulating the framing in the wall above the fireplace to prevent heat going up through the wall, as well as installing some sort of deflection to direct heat away from the face of the TV. Ultimately, you have to decide if you want to watch a TV that is at least half way up the wall.

Q – Will putting doors on an open fireplace increase its efficiency?

Most gas or wood fireplaces that have been designed to operate “open” will not work properly with the doors closed, and in doing so, you may run the risk of melting the valve. The real benefit of having doors is to keep the warm room air from going up the chimney when the fireplace is off.

Q – Is there a choice of logs with my prefabricated gas fireplace?

Almost all gas fireplaces come with complete log sets that cannot be altered. The fireplaces are tested with a particular burner and log set up that cannot be altered without voiding the manufacturer’s warranty. Some of the more basic “builders” units have burner upgrades available, and a couple of the higher-end specialty direct vent units are starting to offer a couple of burner options, but for the most part, most gas fireplaces have no options for different burner and log set ups.

Q – Can I increase the efficiency of my open fireplace by adding glass doors and a fan?

Adding a set of doors to an open fireplace will not increase the efficiency of a fireplace. Furthermore you may blow the doors out or melt the valve of your gas fireplace by operating the fireplace with the doors closed. However, when the fireplace is not operating, having the doors closed will prevent heat from your house from going up the flue, whereas with gas fireplaces the damper is always open. Some open prefabricated gas fireplaces have the facility for adding a fan which will push some of the heated air into the room, but there is no way to add a fan to a basic log set to recover heat.

Q – What are the regulations regarding installing a gas fireplace in a bathroom?

If the bathroom has a door, the fireplace must have a direct vent-balanced flue system – no open B vents. The fireplace must operate on a timer or thermostat and must be 18″ from the tub or shower. The glass on the fireplace should be ceramic.

Q – What are the regulations regarding gas fireplaces in bedrooms?

Any type of gas fireplace can be installed into a bedroom, as long as it can be controlled by a thermostat and there is adequate fresh air makeup.

Q – Can you replace a direct vent fireplace with a different fireplace by simply hooking up to the existing vent?

If the new fireplace has been made by the same manufacturer as the old one, you should have no problem. If not, the complete vent system including the exterior vent termination will have to be changed. This is because each manufacturer receives approval for their units based on the use of their own vent system. So one manufacturer’s fireplace will not be approved with another’s vent system. There are a few exceptions with some smaller manufacturers that use common vent systems made by third-party approved vent manufacturers.

Q – Can I vent an open gas fireplace out a wall?

Only sealed direct vent fireplaces can be vented horizontally out a wall. The only exception would be an open fireplace with a power vented system, which is usually noisy and not recommended in residential installations.

Q – I have a wood-burning brick and masonry fireplace that faces one direction. We would like to open it up so that is see-through and put in a gas insert.

Your chimney has been designed to vent your existing size of fireplace opening, so opening it up on the other side will essentially double the space needed to be vented. This is unlikely to work. What you can do is install glass on one side or use a vent top power draft inducer.

Q – I have a wood-burning fireplace that does not vent very well. I’d like to put in a gas insert to solve the problem, preferably an open gas log set.

If your fireplace does not vent very well with wood, it will not vent well with an open gas log set, since all you are doing is exchanging fuels. You do have several options: One is to install a chimney top powered draft inducer. Another is to install a set of doors that remain partially closed while the fireplace is in use. You can test for this door option by restricting the opening and seeing what happens. The best option in terms of heat is to install an efficient wood or gas insert. Both of these require liners in the chimney and operate with closed glass.

Q – I am looking to replace my existing open gas or wood burning fireplace with a more efficient sealed gas unit, and I want to accomplish this without affecting my finishes.

In 49 out of 50 times, you will not be able to completely take out your existing fireplace without affecting your surrounding finishes. There are small efficient inserts available specifically designed to fit into existing fireplaces. There also is the option to partially cut out your existing fireplace and install an efficient insert with a zero clearance kit.

Q – I have a smoky wood burning fireplace and wish to install an open gas log set to fix the problem.

By exchanging gas for wood you will not solve the problem, you are just exchanging fuels, and if the problem is severe enough and you change to gas, you might make yourself sick or worse. You can however change over to a sealed gas unit to solve your problem.

Q – Are there direct-vented fireplaces with less metal and louvers exposed?

A few manufactures have come up with designs that have minimized the exposed metal on direct vent fireplaces. For examples see the links below.

http://www.vangasfireplaces.com/section.asp?pageid=4316
http://www.vangasfireplaces.com/section.asp?pageid=4304
http://www.vangasfireplaces.com/Town-and-Country.asp

Q – What size of gas pipe do I need to use for a particular fireplace?

The size of the pipe required for a fireplace will depend upon the amount of BTUs used and the gas pressure along its route to the fireplace and back to the meter. In most cases, gas fireplaces can be fed by copper pipes from 3/8″ to 5/8″ or steel pipes up to 3/4″.

Q – Can I use vented gas logs in a stove? In a fireplace? In a coal burning fireplace?

Vented gas logs can only be used in a wood-burning fireplace. A coal-burning fireplace is too shallow. Vented gas logs are not recommended for a stove because of safety concerns.

Q – What does remote ready mean? Does it come with a remote?

Remote ready means that you can turn the unit on and off via the remote (wired or wireless). This requires a millivolt valve that creates millionths of volts of electricity to control the valve. Remote ready units do not come with a remote because there are up to 20 different kinds of remotes.

Q – There is a white film on the inside of the glass. How do I get it off and why is it there?

The film is generally caused by the mineral residue left over from the burning off of the gas. There are water components in gas which carry minerals. Luckily, there are specific cleaners made for cleaning fireplace glass. Do not use ammonia based products as they might cause damage or etching to the glass. To remove and clean your glass check your owner’s manual or call a service technician

Q – Do we need to have those brass strips like the ones shown in the fireplace brochure?

Most fireplace manufacturers, like car manufacturers, like to show as many options for the product as possible, even if many customers just want the basic unit. All the fireplaces shown in the brochure can be obtained in basic black.

Q – If the power goes out, will my fireplace still work?

Most fireplaces installed today have a standing pilot system which generates millivolts of electricity to operate the fireplace, thus no external power is required. At this point, electronic ignitions are seldom installed. Of course if you have a fan, it will not work in a power outage, however the fireplace will.

Q – I presently have a gas fireplace (logs in a sand base) and am interested in the installation of a high efficiency insert. My present fireplace does not seem to throw off much heat and certainly does nothing to warm up the room. I would like to have a rough idea as to cost for a new insert and installation.

The fireplaces themselves start at $1,300 and the installation, including a liner in your chimney at about $375, plus tax, – complete – $1,900 and up.

Q – I have just seen your web page. I have a wood burning fireplace that is open on both sides – i.e. into two rooms. I would like to like to replace it with a gas burning insert but I’m being told that they don’t come two sided.

There are no two sided inserts on the market, there are however, gas log sets which are specifically set up for see through fireplaces.

Q – I am interested in getting a fireplace installed in my home. I don’t have an existing space and am told I would need what is called a zero clearance kit. My question is – you advertise the use of what you call an approved metal firebox. Is that the same as a zero clearance kit and what exactly is it made of? How is it installed in the wall for the fireplace insert to fit into?

An approved metal firebox refers to either a gas or wood burning fireplace that an insert would fit into. A zero clearance kit is a metal box shaped to fit a gas fireplace insert and is installed In the wall and framed to. It requires a B-vent type vent system which ultimately will terminate past the roof line.

Q – When purchasing a gas fireplace is it not standard to get a fan and thermostat with it or is this extra and approximately how much? And can they be installed after the fireplace has been inserted?

It is not standard on most fireplaces to have a fan. They are generally options ranging in price, depending upon the model, from $150 to $300. Some units come with built in modulating flame/heat controls. Wall mounted calibrated thermostats are extra and cost from $39 and up depending upon the features and the installation required. It is possible to add fans and thermostats after the initial installation of the fireplace.

Q – I am getting confused between the efficiency of direct vent and sealed B-vent fireplaces. I have been told that the sealed B-vent does not create the draft and waste heat like the standard B-vent gas fireplace and is not noticeably different from the direct vent. Is this true?

All direct vent fireplaces are not efficient, but most are, it depends on whether they have heat exchangers etc. or not. Definitely open B vented units are inefficient and can cause drafts. Some sealed B-vented units are as efficient as the better direct vent units as long as they have been installed properly with fresh air make up. Quiet often in older homes there is adequate fresh air make-up; fresh air kits are usually required for newer, ‘tighter’ homes.

Q – Can I modulate the flame on my gas log set?

Unlike most full gas inserts, a log set gas valve cannot be modulated easily except by turning down the main shut off, however there are retrofit valve systems available that cost about $600 plus labor that you can install.

Q – I’m looking for a gas fireplace that can vent through a masonry chimney that will look as close to masonry as possible. I want to run the marble right up to the edge of the opening. Approx. 36″ w x 24″ h (if possible). I would also like to be able to use a remote control or wall switch.

If you have an existing wood burning fireplace you can install a log set. They come in various sizes to suit different sized openings and they can also be controlled by a wall switch or a remote control.

Q – Do you sell a gas fireplace with a glowing ember base? i.e.:- a fireplace that has “hot ashes” underneath the grate. Please advise if you do and the prices associated with them. Efficiency is not the concern – appearance is!

The best way to achieve this effect is with a gas log set in either an existing masonry fireplace or a prefabricated zero clearance wood burning fireplace. We often use the zero clearance wood burning fireplace with a gas log set in renovations and new home construction to achieve the best aesthetics. If you look on our web site the combination would be a Superior wood burning zero clearance fireplace with a Peterson log set installed within it.

Q – I recently bought a home where the previous owner converted the wood burning fireplace to gas. At the bottom I found sand and some white cotton like substance that glows when the flame is on. Is this asbestos? Was asbestos ever used in gas fireplaces? I have two small children and would like to know if it poses a health problem.

It is not asbestos; it is vermiculite and rock wool.

Q – I have steel wood stove, brick lined and doors come off for open front. I want to put gas 18″ logs in it. It is vented through a chimney.

You can install the log set if you leave the doors off.

Q – The existing fireplace in the living room is a Traditional wood burning masonry fireplace built flush to the wall. The previous home owner installed a gas log set and a set of folding glass doors attached to the ceramic tile surround. The opening is about W39″ by H29″. We will want to get a new more realistic log set. Would you recommend staying with some sort of glass on the front? And do you know if it is possible to increase the height of the opening in a masonry fireplace?

Doors will cut down on your heat loss when the fireplace is not in operation, as the damper in wood burning fireplaces is either disabled or removed entirely when a log set is installed. To increase the opening height you would have to have the chimney capacity calculated for the new opening.

Q – I am finishing my basement. I am looking for a direct vent gas fireplace in the 30K BTU range. I need to have a blower to heat the entire basement. What is the capacity of your fan and does the fan draw from outside the home or inside the room?

A fan itself does not heat. It is the efficiency of the unit which counts. A fan will assist in the circulation of converted heat in the room – as will a ceiling fan, it does bring in fresh air from outside. A fan installed in a fireplace usually increases the efficiency of a fireplace 5 to 10%.

Q – I want a freestanding natural gas stove for my outdoor covered patio. Can any of your indoor gas stoves be used outside? The stove will be on a deck that has a roof. I live near Seattle, so you know our weather. Thank you. PS. Chimerras are the only outdoor gas stove solution that I have found…but I don’t like those. I want a pretty outdoor stove for warmth and ambiance on dreary evenings.

There is no stove style gas unit approved for exterior use, the chimera style gas unit and the open campfire units are the only off the shelf units available. We have built in zero clearance units for the purpose (see below).

Q – I’m looking for an outdoor, built-in, gas fireplace.

There is not a unit specifically for this purpose. There is however, stainless wood burning units which you build in then install gas log sets into.

Q – Is an outdoor wood-burning fireplace permitted in my area?

Each municipality has its own bylaws regarding this issue. Metropolitan Vancouver and the North Shore municipalities do not allow it, while other municipalities make allowances if you say it is a cooking fire (so keep a stick and a hot dog around!). There are a number of gas alternatives available for outdoor installation, some built in and others free standing.

Q – I am interested in installing a natural gas patio heater. What is approximate cost of running a gas line about 20ft and installing a gas valve? There is gas on the property.

If the gas line is run on the house or a solid surface the cost would be $225. This would include a basic quick connect which would be required to plug in a heater if it is a portable model. If you are planning in installing a fixed unit, the cost would depend upon the style of heater chosen.

Q – Can I convert an existing wood burning stove to gas?

You may find a log set burner small enough to fit into your stove or have a custom burner made to fit. You’ll also have to get the gas into the stove without compromising the integrity of the stove. The door must be removed so as not to melt the gas valve or the controls outside the stove.

Q – What is seasoned cordwood? To heat an area of 1500 to 2000 sq. ft . would you need a fan system? How many hours does a single load of wood burn? Can you connect to forced air system even through an existing wood burning fireplace chimney?

Seasoned cordwood is hardwood that has been dried out for at least a year or more. To heat that space you would need a fan. Burn times vary as to the unit and the type of wood used – anywhere from 8 to 18 hours. With a free standing unit there is no real way to hook up to a duct system, the more sophisticated built in air tights have duct take offs.

Q – Are wood fireplaces allowed to be put into new homes?

This question reflects an urban myth that’s been alive and well in the Vancouver area for some time. Presently, there are no restrictions to installing and using a wood-burning fireplace inside a home in the Vancouver area, as long as the fireplace is built or installed to code.

Q – Is it possible to have a gas fire without having a fireplace, example on a back outside wall?

In short – yes. You would install a zero clearance direct vent fireplace, which does not require any existing fireplace or chimney system and would vent straight through the outside wall.

Q – I have a wood burning fireplace on one side and on the backside of the fireplace, which is in my den; I have a wood burning stove that I would like to replace with a gas fireplace. The wood burning stove is vented out the back of the fireplace.

If there are two flues you can use one for your gas stove and one for the existing fireplace, but if the stove shares a flue with the wood fireplace, you cannot use it for a gas fireplace and you would have to run a separate vent either up through the roof or out through the wall.

Q – We have a gas insert that is approximately 8 years old. Is it possible to convert this to a direct vent? If not, could it be power-vented to achieve a similar result? Thanks!

It is not possible to convert a “B” vent fireplace into a direct vent. It is possible to add a power vent. We would need to know a few more things – how far do you want to vent etc. The down side of a power vent system are noise, permanent power requirements and cost.

Q – Do you make any new gas fireplaces with zero clearance in which the front doors can open?

There are zero clearance, B-vented units that vent up through the roof and the doors do open. On these fireplaces doors, in fact, are not a necessity – but keep in mind that these fireplaces are also only decorative and not an efficient source of heat.

ThermArt^TM

Q – With ThermArt^TM fires, can the heat output be adjusted?

Yes. The heat can be progressively adjusted using the high end remote control which includes temperature control and timed setting functions. The adjustment range of the valve provides you with a range of heat outputs for varied comfort conditions. If you wish to enjoy your gas fire throughout the summer or to take the chill out of those late evenings, simply turn down the input setting so you don’t overheat your room!

Q – Do ThermArt^TM fires have installation options?

The ThermArt^TM fire can be recessed into a combustible wall as a zero clearance appliance or mounted directly on the surface of the wall using the supplied host cabinet. You can also design your own custom ThermArt^TM stainless steel surround to finish the installation. ThermArt^TM uses corrosion-resistant materials and is suitable for installation outdoors, however direct exposure to heavy or freezing rain or snow is not recommended.

The Sarasota Herald Tribune says that toxicologist Tom Gauthier of the firm Environ International, hired to study the problem by builder Lennar Homes, has found that the elemental sulphur in the panels reacts with naturally-occurring carbon monoxide in the ambient air to form carbonyl sulphide. The carbonyl sulphide then reacts with moisture and air to produce hydrogen sulphide and carbon disulfide. All three gases have been detected in test chambers and in homes containing the Chinese drywall. And according to Gauthier, Environ was able to stimulate a much faster release of the offending gases by placing the drywall in a chamber rich in carbon monoxide.

Government scientists lag behind Environ’s investigators and other outside researchers, notes the Herald Tribune (”Federal scientists trail others on drywall,” by Aaron Kessler). Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) scientists in a report last month, the paper notes, “were not yet even able to state there was an association between the tainted drywall and the corrosion of copper wires, pipes, air conditioning coils, and other metal components” — even though “Florida, along with a host of private consultants, has long since determined that there is a strong association between the drywall and corrosion.”

Tom Gauthier’s results were corroborated by Michael Tuday, research and development director of California-based Columbia Analytical Services, Inc., and Zdenek Hejzlar, an expert in the environmental and toxic health fields with the Fort Myers office of Engineering Systems Inc., reports the Fort Myers News-Press (”Blame sulphur for drywall woes, experts say,” by Mary Wozniak). “The three scientists, in separate presentations, confirmed that the sulphur interacts with indoor air and other agents, like carbon monoxide, to cause different sulphur compounds to be emitted from the drywall in low amounts. It is enough to cause the drywall’s corrosive effect on air conditioning coils and other metal items in the home, they said.”

The sulphur explanation has the virtue of simplicity — unlike a competing theory that casts suspicion on a possible microbial source of the gas releases. “Some labs say Chinese drywall contains significant amounts of sulphate-reducing bacteria,” reports the Palm Beach Post (”Bacteria, chemical reaction debated as roots of drywall problem,” by Allison Ross). But “the bacteria theory needs a lot of work,” said Florida Department of Health toxicologist David Krause, pointing out that while the drywall may contain bacteria, no connection has yet been established between the bacteria and the sulphuric emissions. On the other hand, if carbon monoxide is the limiting element in the formation of carbonyl sulphide, then according to basic chemistry it would make sense that gases are emitted at a steady rate until most of the sulphur in the material is consumed — subject only to the continued availability of carbon monoxide in the ambient air.

Environ scientists also told the conference that in their view, removing the bad drywall and replacing it with fresh, sulphur-free drywall should eliminate the problem, according to the Sun Sentinel paper (”Rip out Chinese drywall and start over, scientist advises,” by Paul Owens). James Poole, an industrial hygienist with the firm, said, “If you remove it, clean up the debris, ventilate the home and rebuild, there’s no reason you can’t expect success.”

Lennar Homes, which has torn out and replaced the defective drywall in dozens of homes already, refused to comment, the Sun Sentinel reports. But Heather Keith, a lawyer for GL homes, which has replaced drywall in at least 20 units, told the paper that customers were “happy” with the fix, saying, “There are no reported or ongoing health or odour issues. I’d be surprised if the scientific community would say that the extensive repair that involves the complete removal of the interiors of a house is premature or insufficient.”

But what is it? Why do we always hear about problems with it? And is it still a problem? Polybutylene piping has caused a lot of headaches, but still has come a long ways since it was initially introduced. Let’s take a closer look at it and see what the concerns are about the pipe.

What is it? Polybutylene piping is a gray or blue non-rigid water supply piping. Production and sale of this piping began in 1977. It was used because it is relatively inexpensive and easier to install than traditional copper or even CPVC water piping. The original joints utilized an acetal resin (an adhesive) with crimp rings to secure the pipes to the metal fitting.

The issues started surfacing in the early 1980’s in the form of leaks and major ruptures of the piping. The majority of these leaks occurred at the pipe joint fittings. The manufacturers of Polybutylene piping concluded that the majority of the leaks were the fault of improper installation. They believe that many plumbers used improper fittings to join the pipes and that the use of semi-skilled laborers has led to improper pipe joint installation. This may have contributed to the problem, but given the amount of problems seen, many feel strongly that there is more to it than shoddy workmanship. One current theory is that chemicals in the public water supply react with the piping and acetal resin in the fittings, weakening the pipes and joints.

Class action lawsuits against the Polybutylene piping manufacturers began in the 1980’s. The largest lawsuit to date was Cox vs. Shell Oil, in 1995, which resulted in a settlement fund near $1 billion. The manufacturers started a third-party administrator known as the Consumer Plumbing Recovery Center to handle the individual settlements. Additionally, the manufacturers sponsor the Plumbing Claims Group, which replaced the plumbing in homes with Polybutylene pipe leaks.

There were two major design differences created to correct the problems. First they changed the design of the pipe joint fittings. Now they are joined with a piece of copper tube with the pipe affixed to it by means of a crimped copper ring at each end. Also, the manufacturers changed the plumbing schematics to eliminate the majority of the “T” unions, since most problems occur at the joints. The new method utilizes a central manifold from which all the pipes originate. However, some in the industry are still leery about this product and suggest that these design alterations are not enough to solve the problem.

Unfortunately Polybutylene pipe makes the decision to purchase a house that has Polybutylene piping more complicated. It can not be overstated that the condition of a Polybutylene system cannot be determined in the course of a normal home inspection, since virtually all of the system is hidden behind walls and in the attic under insulation. Even if the home has this kind of plumbing there is no single course of action that is yet recommended for consumers with a Polybutylene system. Home buyers should be aware that problems might occur, and should arm themselves with as much information as possible about the Polybutylene system in the house.

My recommendation is for you to call at least three different Licensed Plumbers and ask them what they think of the pipe, is there a sincere need to replace the Pipe? Could the pipe begin to leak in the future? Would I be better off having the Pipe replaced with Copper, PEX Plastic, or CPVC Plastic Pipe?

I have my own personal opinion of the Pipe because I have witnessed failures in many homes and commercial buildings in the last twenty five years, I have never witnessed Copper, PEX, or CPVC Plastic Pipes fail because of the pipe in and of itself, therefore you should come to your own conclusion about the Pipe after talking to as many experts as possible before you close escrow. If you have concerns, I suggest having the Polybutylene Pipe replaced before you close escrow.

More information can be found at: http://www.repipenews.com

For the best inspector in your neighborhood, visit:  www.InspectorSEEK.com

Don’t do something that you’re not comfortable doing; hire a professional do to it.

OUTSIDE

1. _____Check that doorbells work.
2. _____Check for missing roof shingles.
3. _____Check for loose/damaged/clogged gutters/downspouts.
4. _____Check attic ventilation and condition of vent screens.
5. _____Check to see if there is standing water, especially near the foundation, after irrigation or rainfall.
6. _____Check for cracks in foundation walls.
7. _____Check structure (including attic and foundation crawl space) for pests (termites, wasps, spiders, nests, etc.).
8. _____Check exterior weatherproofing (stain, paint, etc.).
9. _____Check for any wood in direct contact with soil, including fences and gates.
10. _____Check for loose wiring (electric, cable, phone) and poor wire terminations.
11. _____Check for holes and damage to siding, doors, windows, and trim so that structure is weatherproof.
12. _____Check condition of fences or gates (leaning, damaged).
13. _____Check that any exterior outlets are weatherproofed and not in permanent use for any landscape lighting.
14. _____Check condition of landscape components (retaining walls, landscaper timbers, etc.).
15. _____Check for overgrown vegetation, especially in walkways; growing on siding, roof, chimney, fences, or in gutters; or too close to utility lines.
16. _____Check for trip hazards in walkways, driveways, and stairways (deterioration, vegetation, etc.)
17. _____Check for loose, missing, or rusted guardrails and handrails at stairways, decks, balconies, and porches.
18. _____Check that landscape lighting/irrigation systems work, and that sprinklers don’t spray on fences or buildings.
19. _____Check condition of pool and spa, and related equipment and utilities.
20. _____Check that ponds, fountains, and waterfalls, and related utilities, work properly and are protected from children.

PLUMBING

1. _____Check that seismic straps are on the water heater.
2. _____Check that stoppers work in bathtubs and sinks.
3. _____Check for clogged drains.
4. _____Check that toilet seat bolts and screws are tight.
5. _____Check that faucets don’t drip or leak around the base.
6. _____Check stop action on faucet handles.
7. _____Check condition of caulk/grout in bathtubs/showers.
8. _____Check insulation on water pipes in foundation crawl space and attic.
9. _____Check for safe and easy access to water shutoff valves (street curb, water heater, sinks, toilets, etc.).
10. _____Check for safe and easy access to any gas shutoff valves (meter, furnace, water heater, etc.).
11. _____Check for loose toilets and loose toilet tanks.

ELECTRICAL

1. _____Check for safe and easy access to electric panels and main circuit breaker.
2. _____Check that ceiling fans work on all speeds.
3. _____Check for burned out lights, including ceiling fans.
4. _____Check for damaged or loose outlets and light switches, including covers for outlets and switches.
5. _____Check for unplugged appliances, and unplug anything that is unnecessary to facilitate outlet testing by the Buyer’s property inspector.
6. _____Remove extension cords and outlet multipliers.
7. _____Check that outlets work.
8. _____Check for outdated two-prong outlets and upgrade them to three-prong outlets.
9. _____Check for properly working GFCI outlets in kitchen, bathrooms, garage, and exterior.
10. _____Check that exhaust fans work in kitchen, bathrooms, and laundry area.
11. _____Check that any electrical junction boxes have covers.

INSIDE

1. _____Check condition of towel holders and bathroom tissue holders.
2. _____Check condition of bathtubs, showers, and shower doors, and replace old shower curtains.
3. _____Check that safety seal shows on floor-to-ceiling windows and glass doors.
4. _____Check that carbon monoxide alarms work.
5. _____Check that smoke alarms work, and that they are present on each floor of multi-story houses.
6. _____Check for loose kitchen and bathroom countertops.
7. _____Check ease of operation for doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers, and windows, including windows nailed or painted shut.
8. _____Check for missing, loose, or damaged hardware on doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers (stops and guides), and windows.
9. _____Check for loose glass panes in windows and doors, as well as glass with holes or cracks in them.
10. _____Check that latches/locks work on doors (including closet doors and cabinet doors), drawers, and windows.
11. _____Check for damage to screen windows.
12. _____Remove excessive storage (closets, attic, garage).
13. _____Check for damage to walls and ceilings that need to be patched and painted.
14. _____Check for moisture stains on ceilings and walls; around doors and windows; near sinks, toilets, bathtubs, and showers; and near the dishwasher.
15. _____Check for loose, missing, or damaged guardrails and handrails in stairways.
16. _____Check for loose, broken or missing baseboards and door and window moldings.
17. _____Check for cracked tiles or deteriorated grouting in kitchen and bathrooms.
18. _____Check that kitchen appliances work.
19. _____Check that an anti-tip device is installed on the range.

MISCELLANEOUS

1. _____Let dogs and cats vacation for a few hours with a family member, friend, or at a pet spa. Check that other pets (birds, snakes, rodents, etc.) are caged.
2. _____Certain items should be inspected annually due to their inherently dangerous nature. These include gas-using appliances, pool/spa equipment, roof, and the fireplace and chimney. If they have not been inspected within the last 12 months, having it done now can make escrow go more smoothly.
3. _____Check that filters are in place and clean (kitchen range hood, heating/cooling, bathroom fans, etc.)
4. _____Check for soot, cobwebs, and wildlife in the fireplace and lower areas of the chimney.
5. _____The Chimney Safety Institute of America (CSIA) recommends that the fireplace and chimney undergo a Level II inspection any time real estate ownership is transferred, and I recommend having that done prior to the Buyer’s inspection.
6. _____Check that the fireplace damper opens/closes easily.
7. _____Check for manufacturer installation guides, operating instructions, or user guides that you can provide to the buyer, especially for kitchen appliances; heating and cooling system; water heater; security, irrigation, fire suppression, central cleaning, and water modification systems; water well; and septic system.
8. _____Many property inspectors exclude inspection and testing of some specialized systems, such as security and irrigation systems. Once you get the Buyer’s inspection report, note what the Inspector did and did not do or could and could not do. Offer to meet with the Buyer to demonstrate how those systems are operated and maintained, and provide the contact information for any companies that regularly service the systems.
9. _____Check for receipts and warranty papers for any work done on the property, particularly for inspections and work done to prepare the property for sale.

When the licensing was introduced back in April 2009 the BC Government and the BPCPA allowed inspectors that are non members of the designated associations a 2 year grace period to update and join. Some inspectors were issued a licence under a transitional status (grandfathered).

This was granted to prevent home inspectors that have been conducting business for years from shutting down overnight and suffering significant financial implications. In order to be a member of a designated association (CAHPI, ASTTBC, NCP) you must pass entrance exams, academic training, supervised inspections (mentoring), submit reports for evaluation, continuing education credits, follow a standards of practice and code of ethics including being held accountable by the association.

Home Inspectors that are not a member of a designated association DO NOT have to meet any of these requirements until the 2 year grace period is over. At the end of the transitional stage (April 2011) they will have to meet the requirements of a designated association or hand in their licence. You should be leery about the inspectors that do not have credentials.

This may be misleading to the general public as some home inspectors are still conducting business as they were before the licensing. Therefore, the consumer should research, interview and make an effort to find the right home inspector.

Look for an inspector on the internet or in the yellow pages. It is not advisable to take the first inspector a Realtor may offer without doing some research as opportunity for conflict of interest may exist. Ask many questions such as:

• What is the home inspectors training? Academic training plus experience is essential.
• What type of equipment does the inspector use? Some inspectors use state of the art technology like infrared.
• Does the inspector have any references? References should always be available by a reputable company.
• How long does a home inspection take? Some inspectors are more thorough and take longer.
• Can the client attend the inspection? It is a good idea to attend, ask questions.
• What is in the report and how thorough is it? Detailed custom reports with pictures are better. Ask for a sample.
• What association does the inspector belong to? Must be at least one of the approved (CAHPI, ASTTBC, NCP).
• What was the last continuing education course the inspector has taken? Good inspectors are always learning.
• What makes the inspector different from the rest? Licensing is a minimum, what does the inspector offer more then the standard.

Some Home Inspectors are not on a Realtor’s list of preferred inspectors and are blacklisted for being too thorough or an ”alarmist”. These licensed inspectors typically provide a technical, thorough, detailed, independent service working in the best interest of their client(s) and should be considered during the real estate purchase.